Pago Pago, US Samoa

We arrived in American Samoa on 13^th July after setting out from Nuku Hiva on Friday 29^th June and are on anchor in the harbour of Pago Pago.



The anchorage at Pago Pago



The winds were very strong at times, up to force 6, and there were 4-5 metre cross swells coming from three directions so it was most uncomfortable being tossed from side to side with that screwy motion again. I have never suffered from seasickness but the Pacific is something else!

For the last few days we only had about a quarter of the genoa out and half the mizzen and we were still being tossed around at speeds of 7-8 knots in a force 5-6. The water and fuel tanks are above the water line so that doesn’t help at all.

There was a lot of rain too. It seems there is a belt of nasty weather which runs from the south east to the north west of the Pacific at this time of year. On a particularly stormy night a huge wave came over with such force that one of the radar reflectors, which is quite high up the stays, ended up facing the wrong way.

Seven days out the generator packed up again and, after changing all the usual filters, oil, fuel, air etc, we discovered that the impeller was shattered and the fuel pump also gave up the ghost. As we need to run it every day to provide power for the autopilot and house batteries, the Captain rigged up a way of feeding fuel to it by a gravity feed system.

This entails a fuel can with hoses to and from the generator. This can needs filling with diesel every day - not an easy task in the turbulent seas we had. There was a bit of spillage as the boat would suddenly lurch at an inopportune moment during the process. More diesel fumes to endure!

      * These photos were taken while on the hook, you can see that the procedure would be very tricky whilst underway!!

At one point the auto pilot switched itself off …. Don’t know why. There didn’t seem to be any reason for it as it worked fine when it was switched back on. Then a few days later the Foruno chart plotter had a fit and decided that we were travelling at 212 knots and then righted itself. The Gremlins are back!!!

One evening, as dusk approached, we were visited by a lot of booby birds all trying to hitch a ride. One managed to land on the top of the forward mast. Even blasts with the fog-horn wouldn’t deter him from his perch. Of course there are navigation instruments on the top of the mast and we were concerned that he might damage them. Luckily all was well and he flew off at dawn.

We saw some a huge pod of dolphins on the way - they were really having fun!  The filming is a bit wobbley as there were so many I didn't know where to point the camera !!

The island is very beautiful and surrounded by reefs over which the surf breaks with that lovely turquoise colour in the waves. The local buses are similar to those you find in India; personalised, lights all over and underpowered. The Samoans are big people, we were in one the other day and a load of people got on and the driver had to tell some to get off as the suspension was going.



The harbour entrance to Pago Pago from the shore




The Rain Maker Mountain



This is an example of the local style of building



There is a fish canning factory on one side of the bay – we heard that the big fishing boats which catch the tuna hadn’t been out to sea for over a week because the sea was too rough!

The Canning factory and huge fishing boats which service it

I’ve been having serious nightmares about it all and so have decided to jump ship and fly home. Initially the plan was to get the boat to Oz in three months – had all gone smoothly we should have been there at the end of May.  But, as you know, there seems to have been one thing after another going wrong. It’s been a great experience but I am in need of some calm and de-stressing after five months of it.

Oh, and a long soak in the bath would be wonderful too!